Velvet Utopia

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Reinvented Modernity: Dior Spring-Summer 2015

What is modern?” The statement presented on the press notes perfectly describes the mood of the Dior Spring Summer 2015 collection. After all, Simons’ trade-mark way of thinking would be the process of finding something extremely modern through something very historical.” This collection proudly re-presented, in an 18th century futuristic way,Dior’s original Bar Jacket, as well as his revolutionary silhouette. And in doing so, he presented a collection that ‘made the history look new and the modern look old’. Many of the waist lines of the coats recalled the 1947 New Look’s delineation, as well as inspiration to 18th century ‘justacorp’ court coats. It was as if Marie Antoinette had gone to lunch with Neil Armstrong,Tony Hawk and a school girl. Raf Simons knowing and understanding the brand’s heritage and history has completely changed its style, making the Dior woman, not only Miss Dior, but also Mrs Dior and Lady Dior! 

The delicacy of the floral motifs carefully woven on skirts, jumpsuits, jackets and dresses, created an ethereal aura of intagible elegance. The way some of the silk satins in the vests and coats had been manufactured in a heavy wash kind of way, recalled vintage robes. The richness of the colours, from marigold to bordeaux, contrasted with the tenuos tenderness of the milk-white/icy virginal hues used on what seemed rural nightgowns. This contrast enhanced the glitzy glamour of Dior, complemented even more by the styling, which included knitted tops and Bermuda shorts. It was, as if someone had picked out fabrics, inspirational drawings and sartorial detailing from the archive of the V&A Clotheworker’s center and had teleported them to the 21st century. Someone looking at the collection with fresh eyes, oblivious of the clear references to 18th century fashion, would’ve thought they were looking at a period drama costume rail. They’d be struck by how jacquard floral prints could ever look so good on astronaut jumpsuits. They’d be charmed by the subtle details, colorful lines of buttons, detailing the edges of skirts and jackets. They’d be seduced by the styling, a clever mix of vintage and avant-garde. They’d remain confused by the Edwardian collars and languid vests, which so much recalled puritan night gowns. 

It was a continuation of the ideas he had brought forward in July at the haute couture collection, however, even though the craftmanship was amazing, it lacked that exciting step forward which had previously led many people to wander in another enchanted dimension.

Gifs and pictures from the Dior Tumblr, text by Elisa Carassai.

Spree Paris

I stumbled upon this shop whilst walking up to the artsy district of Montmartre, and was immediately drawn to enter it due to its particular atmosphere. Other than selling famous brands such as Marc Jacobs,Isabel Marant, Kenzo and Comme De Garçons, the owners of this shop had crafted such a a creative atmosphere, surrounding the garments in sale with artwork and lovely examples of interior design, such as minimalistic lamps and quirky pottery. A must visit: their art gallery next door. 

The It-Buy: their hand-crafted ballerinas in leather and suede.

Address: 16 Rue Lavieuville, Paris, France

Phone: +33 1 42 23 41 40

Email: contact@spree.fr

spree.fr

Dictionary Milano

Wandering around my lovely city, I often stumbled upon this shop in one of my favourite and very hip neighbourhoods of Milan, Porta Ticinese. I walked in here so many times, it became one of my it-shops which I recommend to every fashionista, be it a man or a woman. I’d especially recommend it to people who love peculiar prints, eclectic and minimalistic shoes, and tailored pants. Some of the brands sold here are YMC, Tothem, L’F Shoes, Eleven Paris, Samsoe & Samsoe etc. 

http://www.dictionarymilano.it/

Phone: +39 028358212

AddressCorso di Porta Ticinese, 46, Milano, Italy

Thursday 29th and Friday 30th I worked as an assistant for a milanese fashion director, who was shooting the A/W 2014 LookBook of an italian knitwear designer - Daniele Fiesoli. They casted a quite famous model called Simone Nobili, who had previously worked for brands such as Givenchy and Dolce and Gabbana. The lookbook also included pictures with a model who had worked for Dior, called Isis Bataglia. It was my first experience working on an actual set, and even though I must admit it was really tiring, I fell in love even more with the job. These are some of the sneaky pictures I took whilst people were distracted. The LookBook will be published before this season’s Menswear Fashion Week in Florence - Pitti Uomo - where the designer will showcase his latest collection.

Charles James: The One and Only 

Let’s celebrate the legacy of amazing dresses created by the one and only couturier, Charles James, and the opening of the exhibition in his honour, at the Anna Wintour Costume Institute, with this dreamy Vogue Shoot, shot by Tim Walker. Elegance comes from within, however having one of those dresses does help too…

Collaboration with Wait and See Milano

I am really glad to present my collaboration with Uberta Zambeletti’s Concept Store Wait and See Milano. The collaboration consisted in asking me to style a series of looks, choosing the clothes from the spring summer collections 2014. I was lucky enough to have a preview of a few of some of the fantastic pieces which will be sold soon enough directly at the store and online. Some of the brands of the garments chosen for the shoot included the names of, Angelo Vintage, Samuji, Paul & Joe Sister, Erika Cavallini Semi Couture, Vivetta etc.

The pictures from the shoot were shot in the streets of Milan, near the concept store. I will soon post the video, which accompanies the shoot, showing the “work in process” behind the feature. You can also find more information about the concept store on their website – waitandsee.it – and on their Facebook page. 

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This first outfit was inspired by the 60’s and the mod movement which came along with it.The brown vest i chose reminded me of one of those “hairdresser style” robes which they would often wear as overcoats. I simply wanted to pair up a printed romper with garments of the same colour scheme. On the other hand, I chose to wear striped socks to deviate from a “matchy matchy” complete look.

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This second outfit was inspired by street artists and their typical ‘swaggy’ look, as you can clearly notice from the ‘ain’t no wifey’ beanie and military jacket. However, i was also inspired by Jemima Kirke’s boho look in one of the episodes of HBO’s Girls, that’s why i decided to pair the jacket and the hat with a pair of very loose ‘pijama pants’ and leopard printed boots. 

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This outfit was inspired by green and nature. I decided i would mix up a pair of vintage pants which reminded me of the Missoni print, with a simple, sheer, nature-inspired vest and at last, pairing it with a leather vest.

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This outfit was mainly inspired by the 50’s, as i wanted to mix up two different styles and end up with an edgy but feminine look. This is why i decided to pair up this colorful floral vintage long skirt, which could be considered very plain if paired up only with a simple top, with Vivetta’s pink ‘hand’ shirt, and a white necklace. I also thought that pairing these bright red oxfords with floral socks, instead of wearing high heels, would certainly give the outfit a unique edge.

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The main idea behind the inspiration for this outfit was the mix of different textures, patterns and styles, but in the same colour scheme. The mix of a loose pair of silk pants, a ‘fishnet’ top, and a very classy overcoat with a silicone neckpiece and a ‘gun bag’ gives the whole outfit a futuristic and/or sinister edge.

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At last, hence my passion for prints and futuristic robes, i decided to pair up these printed pants and top from Paul and Joe Sister with a sequined vest and these amazing geometrically irregular shoes from Fama Pastore. Doesn’t remind you of a 80’s discoteque inspired look?